Published On: Fri, May 17th, 2013

MARIO’S OSTERIA – SUPERB CLASSIC ITALIAN FARE

By Marc Kent

Enjoy the luxury of selecting from a list of 13 truly Italian appetizers such a 3 meatballs made with beef, pork and veal crowned with a dollop of ricotta and fried peppers or Mario’s signature dish of eggplant pancakes – a stack of five, each separated by melted layers of feta, asiago, parmesan and mozzarella cheeses and sauced perfectly with asiago tomato syrup. Both marvelous! We also sampled calamari – available fra diavolo or simply grilled or…our choice…crispy fried with a fine marinara sauce – delicious!

Two standard soups are the chicken vegetable and the pasta fagioli which was smooth and deep flavored. We enjoyed it and, as the soup of the day, a fine mixture of vegetables in a hearty minestrone, if it is on your menu – try it.

From a list of 10 salads, we applauded  a fine Caesar with a creamy dressing and with a hint of anchovies. This was  accompanied by a side of whole anchovies. One may add shrimp or chicken or salmon or steak if you wish but the salad is superb as is. The house salad was sampled next but we were delighted to have the roasted beets and goat cheese salad that featured pistachios, currants, arugula and taggiasca olives with crostini in olive oil…and exciting experience.

The offer to “Create Your Own Pizza” on the menu was accepted so we could judge their basic concept. We ordered a medium cheese pizza – 12” with only Mario’s sauce and grande mozzarella to evaluate the crust and base. The taste, thinness and texture were perfect. No need to add any of the 42 pizza toppings or to order any of the 18 signature pies to state- “Mario’s pizza is superb”.

We sampled chicken two ways. The roasted lemon chicken frascati style was a tender chicken half with a true lemon taste and presented with artichokes, rosemary and roasted vesuvio potatoes with a white wine sauce for a gentle taste. The chicken scarpiello, however, was a robust dish with pepperoncini, broken cherry peppers, roasted peppers, calamata olives, Sicilian olives, artichokes and pasta scarpiello sauce to which we added sausage with a real bite. A fine, spicy dish for the adventurous.There are a dozen additional listings in the Meat Entrée menu as well.

We were unable to sample any of the 10 fish and seafood items or any of the 18 pasta items or any of the 17 side dishes to try another time, although Director of Operations Sande Weinstein gave us his suggestions. Mario’s Osteria prides itself of serving their fine foods in large portions created by Executive Chef Augustine Jeudy and staff – Bravo! For excellent selection choices, our server Daniel was a fountain of knowledge –also Bravo!

Carlene, Heather, Jomar and this reviewer were able to sample only three of the thirteen desserts offered. We had the tiramisu, the vanilla bean crème brulee and the ricotta cheese cake. All made in house and all the delicious way to end a perfect meal.

Located at 1400 Glades Road in Boca Raton  (239-7000), Mario’s Osteria is open 7 days for lunch between 11:30AM and 3PM, for dinner from 3PM to 10PM weeknights – to 11PM on Friday and Saturday nights. Seating 160 inside and 140 outside, this is a gem. We suggest you…Go and Enjoy!

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